Policy of Truth is my most recent pullover design for Paper Moon Knits.  The lace panel is shorter in the front than the back.  For some (like the model in the picture, my 23-year-old daughter) this is just what they want, but for others, it may not be the best option.

Fortunately, this pullover’s length is easy to adjust and for this post, I’ll teach you how to use a schematic to make that length adjustment.  In the process, I’m hoping you’ll also learn just how useful a schematic can be.

Here’s the schematic for Policy of Truth:

The pullover has lace at the bottom edges of both the back and front.  We’ll be looking at the measurements for B, C, E and F.  B shows us the length of the back lace, C shows us the length of the front lace, E shows us the length of the total front and F shows us where we’ll be dividing for the front and back armholes.  The schematic does not show the total back length.  No matter what size you’re thinking of making, the way the pattern is written, the measurements for B and C don’t change.  B = 7″ [17.8cm] or 3 full repeats of the 16-row lace pattern and C = 4 3/4″ [11.9cm] or 2 repeats of the lace pattern.

The length of E changes with each size — 16 (16¼, 16½, 16¾, 17, 17¼, 17½)” [40.5 (41, 42, 42.5, 43, 44, 44.5)cm].  F is the length of the armhole where the pullover is divided front and back and worked separately in rows.  This also changes for each size — 6½ (7, 7½, 8¼, 8½, 9¼, 10)” [16.5 (18, 19, 21, 21.5, 23.5, 25.5)cm]

E- C = length of Stockinette stitch.  Let’s call the answer E1.  Once we have this answer (E1), we’ll subtract F.  E1 – F = length of Stockinette before we divide.  We’ll call this answer F1.  This is the answer we REALLY want.  If we have this answer, we won’t have to fiddle with the pattern as far as to where to begin armhole or neck shaping.

Decide whether you want the sweater to keep that high-low/front-back look.  Then decide what length you’d like the front of the sweater to be.  Keep in mind that 2 full repeats of the lace pattern is 4 3/4″ and 3 full repeats is 7″.  In this particular pattern, I wouldn’t use more than 3 full repeats of the pattern (but of course, you can).

So, what to do?  Let’s take a practical example using the largest size:

 

You decide that you want to keep the high-low look of this sweater.  You’ve also decided that you want the front length to be 20″.

20″ – 4 3/4″ = 15 1/4″   That is E – C = E1 

15 1/4″ – 10″ = 5 1/4″   And this is E1 – F = F1

That means that on the front, you’ll do 2 full repeats of the lace for 4 3/4″, then 5 1/4″ of Stockinette, then 10″ after dividing for the front and back for the armhole.  The total length will be 4 3/4 + 5 1/4″ + 10 which will give you 20″ of front length.  Of course, the back will be 2 1/4″ (7″ – 4 3/4) longer than that for a total of 22 1/4″.

Feel free to write to me with any questions!

 

Usually I post when something significant happens in my design world, but really, I’ve been remiss.  There have been 4 new patterns since my last posting — two for-sale Paper Moon Knits patterns, a free PMK pattern and a pattern published in Love of Knitting.  If you missed it, you can subscribe to my newsletter here, because, well that’s the newsletter.

First up is Stella Cadente.  It’s the free one.  I hadn’t published a free pattern since the mishap with the Pickford, M. socks, and I thought it was about time.  This design was really inspired by the yarn, Lang Yarns Aurora.  It’s ribbon-like with a little metallic and a multi (things I don’t usually go for), but together…lovely.  A simple garter and drop stitch piece that is uber-fast to finish.  I think I did the sample in a couple of hours.

Next are the two new PMK patterns.  The first is Policy of Truth (and, yes, if you’re a Depeche Mode fan, it was named for the song).  It has lace and cable edgings that resemble a star at the bottoms of the front, back and long-ish short sleeves and is slightly oversized.  Although the front is shorter than the back, it’s very easily adjustable and my plan is to do a blog post next week on how to adjust this.  Done in my all-time favorite yarn, Madelinetosh Tosh Merino Light, it’s really a 3-season piece.

This one was followed up by The Crossings, a summer tee in a cotton/linen blend by Tahki called Laguna.  It’s a light and loose raglan with a “differently” great cable running up the center front.  The sample is at String Yarns, if you happen to be in NYC.

And, last but not least, a piece for Early Fall.  Love of Knitting’s newest edition is out and the Orbit pullover was mine.  I love the way they styled this piece — even the belt  which I don’t usually love on knitted pieces works here.  Orbit is a knit-in-the round, bottom-up raglan pullover with dressmaker details — turned hems and collars and full-fashioned shaping.  When you work with a publication, the editors choose the yarn, not you.  Honestly, most of the time it works, but it’s not always that you fall in love.  This time, I did —  Ancient Arts Fibre Crafts BFL Fingering/Sock — in a color called Kismet.  G-O-R-geous.  The good news about this design is that even though it’s brand-spanking-new and is part of a current magazine, you can buy it individually here.

So sorry I’ve been a bit negligent taking care of the blog.  Going to try this summer to be on top of my game.