Policy of Truth: Making a length adjustment

Policy of Truth is my most recent pullover design for Paper Moon Knits.  The lace panel is shorter in the front than the back.  For some (like the model in the picture, my 23-year-old daughter) this is just what they want, but for others, it may not be the best option.

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Fortunately, this pullover’s length is easy to adjust and for this post, I’ll teach you how to use a schematic to make that length adjustment.  In the process, I’m hoping you’ll also learn just how useful a schematic can be.

Here’s the schematic for Policy of Truth:

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The pullover has lace at the bottom edges of both the back and front.  We’ll be looking at the measurements for B, C, E and F.  B shows us the length of the back lace, C shows us the length of the front lace, E shows us the length of the total front and F shows us where we’ll be dividing for the front and back armholes.  The schematic does not show the total back length.  No matter what size you’re thinking of making, the way the pattern is written, the measurements for B and C don’t change.  B = 7″ [17.8cm] or 3 full repeats of the 16-row lace pattern and C = 4 3/4″ [11.9cm] or 2 repeats of the lace pattern.

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The length of E changes with each size — 16 (16¼, 16½, 16¾, 17, 17¼, 17½)” [40.5 (41, 42, 42.5, 43, 44, 44.5)cm].  F is the length of the armhole where the pullover is divided front and back and worked separately in rows.  This also changes for each size — 6½ (7, 7½, 8¼, 8½, 9¼, 10)” [16.5 (18, 19, 21, 21.5, 23.5, 25.5)cm]

E- C = length of Stockinette stitch.  Let’s call the answer E1.  Once we have this answer (E1), we’ll subtract F.  E1 – F = length of Stockinette before we divide.  We’ll call this answer F1.  This is the answer we REALLY want.  If we have this answer, we won’t have to fiddle with the pattern as far as to where to begin armhole or neck shaping.

Decide whether you want the sweater to keep that high-low/front-back look.  Then decide what length you’d like the front of the sweater to be.  Keep in mind that 2 full repeats of the lace pattern is 4 3/4″ and 3 full repeats is 7″.  In this particular pattern, I wouldn’t use more than 3 full repeats of the pattern (but of course, you can).

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So, what to do?  Let’s take a practical example using the largest size:

 

You decide that you want to keep the high-low look of this sweater.  You’ve also decided that you want the front length to be 20″.

20″ – 4 3/4″ = 15 1/4″   That is E – C = E1 

15 1/4″ – 10″ = 5 1/4″   And this is E1 – F = F1

That means that on the front, you’ll do 2 full repeats of the lace for 4 3/4″, then 5 1/4″ of Stockinette, then 10″ after dividing for the front and back for the armhole.  The total length will be 4 3/4 + 5 1/4″ + 10 which will give you 20″ of front length.  Of course, the back will be 2 1/4″ (7″ – 4 3/4) longer than that for a total of 22 1/4″.

Feel free to write to me with any questions!

 

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